1989, 90 & 91 Bolt Replacement Project at Devils Tower National Monument

by Andy Petefish, American Mountain Foundation, and the National Park Service.


During 1989, 1990 and 1991, Andy Petefish donated over 300 hours of volunteer time replacing 1/4 inch spinner and home made bolt hangers w/cold shuts on Devils Tower. This project was supported by Mark Hesse of the American Mountain Foundation and Superintendent Bill Pierce at Devils Tower National Monument. The cost in time and materials to replace one bolt with a high quality Petzl Eye Bolt was about $100 to $200. Andy voluntarly worked to complete this project. If you get around the Tower, you will see his safety work everywhere. Often times right next to a wobbly NPS Cabled Eye Bolt that was welded in a local's shop and not heat treated. No one has any idea how strong these wobbly bolts are since they were not heat treated, x-rayed, and tested.

The Petzel Eye Bolts where chosen in agreement by the AMF, NPS, and Andy with the specific idea in mind that multipile parties could use them at the same time on the same stance since one bolt is rated to 10,000 lbs in strength. Two of these bolts were used on each stance where they were placed. These bolts were designed by Petzl for the French Government for use in their public climbing areas for this very reason.

The photo shows Andy in 1989 working on replacing a substandard and high profile anchor on Devils Tower's West Face. Andy spent hundreds of hours putting the project together and replacing the botls. These high quality glue in 14mm Petzel Eye Bolts are time consuming and difficult to put in properly.

Share & Enjoy the bolts. Plus thank Andy, NPS, and the AMF for their creation.

Andy Petefish of Tower Guides selflessly making climbing safer on Devils Tower by donating time to replace old homemade bolt hangers with 1/4" bolts w/Petzl Eye Bolts on the West Face of Devils Tower - 1989 - Thank You, Andy!!!!